14th Century Charles de Blois Pourpoint Arming Jacket

"A man cannot swing a pollaxe if his arming coat binds across the shoulders." Osric, Keeper of the Hearth & Forge

Preserved in Lyon?s Mus?e des Tissus, the pourpoint of Charles de Blois, Duke of Brittany, remains a pinnacle of 14th-century tailoring. This authentic reproduction honours that legacy, specifically engineered for martial mobility. The crowning triumph of this garment lies in its "grande assiette" sleeves, uniting the shoulder and upper arm in an ingenious curved pattern that leaves the arms free to strike and parry without riding up the torso.

Constructed by hand using traditional tailoring methods, the shell is available in breathable 220 g/m_ pure linen for summer campaigns, a durable linen-cotton blend, or heavy 420 g/m_ recycled wool for bitter weather. Rather than relying on thick padding that hampers agility, the coat receives its structure from a resilient cotton canvas lining. A dense row of fabric-covered buttons seals the front, holding the garment taut and clean against the body.

When sizing your pourpoint, measure yourself wearing whatever undertunic you intend to bear upon the field. The garment is cut to sit close to the ribs and waist to properly balance weight and movement. Slight variations in stitch and texture will naturally occur across every hand-finished piece, echoing true workshop authenticity. When off campaign, lay the doublet flat or folded rather than hanging it long-term, preserving the integrity of its tailored shoulder seams for the next season's muster.